On 26 September 2024, we welcomed approximately 240 representatives from across the UK fashion and textile supply chain to the iconic Drapers Hall in London for the third edition of the UKFT Sustainability Conference. This diverse group encompassed retailers, brands, government departments, recyclers, compliance and sustainability leaders, universities and more, all united by a shared mission to tackle the issue of textile waste in the UK.

Key themes from the conference

This year’s conference explored a wide range of critical topics around textile waste, with a particular focus on:

• Establishing an industry-led Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for Clothing and Textiles
  Adam Mansell from UKFT and Gerrard Fisher from QSA Partners led discussions around creating an industry-led EPR scheme to reduce environmental impacts by making producers responsible for the lifecycle of their products.
• The policy landscape and EPR Schemes in the UK and Europe
  Speakers including Libby Peake from Green Alliance and Scott Butler and Vanessa Gibbin from Material Focus explored how existing EPR schemes, particularly those for electricals, packaging and textiles in France and the Netherlands, could inform the future of similar policies in the UK.
• The EPR Data Sandbox Project and good data management
  Brands like Marks & Spencer (M&S), John Smedley and New Look shared their experiences with the EPR Data Sandbox project, while Julian Tait of Open 3P and Steve Russell from the University of Leeds discussed both the challenges and opportunities of managing data effectively.
• The ACT UK Project
  A significant focus was on the ACT UK project, which aims to pilot a fully integrated, automated sorting and pre-processing demonstrator for waste textiles (ATSP). This could revolutionise how post-consumer textiles are sorted and processed for recycling.
• Collecting post-consumer waste textiles
  Representatives from M&S, Oxfam, Tesco, the Salvation Army Trading Company and Textile Recycling International (TRI) provided insights into their trials in collecting post-consumer waste textiles, in a panel chaired by Ross Barry from Reskinned.
• Textile sorting technology and ATSP updates
  Shan Dulanty and Elizabeth Brown from the Manufacturing Technology Centre (MTC) gave an update on the technology requirements for an ATSP, while Cyndi Rhoades from Circle-8 Textile Ecosystems and Louise Hoyes from TOMRA Textiles outlined the plans for the first ATSP in the UK
• The opportunity for textile recycling in the UK
  Cristina Sabadiuc from WRAP addressed the growing opportunity for textile recycling within the UK, with technology like the ATSP (Automated Sorting and Pre-Processing) playing a pivotal role. Representatives from SATCol, iinouiio, the University of Leeds, and Camira provided an overview of the latest trials in recycling wool, polyester and cotton.
• Solutions beyond waste management
  The conference also explored innovative solutions beyond waste management, such as designing out waste, rental, reprocessing and repair initiatives, in a panel discussion led by Kirsty McGregor from Vogue Business joined by representatives from Circular Textiles Foundation, ACS Clothing and Fashion Enter.

Adam Mansell, CEO of UKFT said: “The conversations around Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), innovative recycling technologies and the launch of our new White Paper highlight the growing shift towards a circular economy here in the UK. I’m proud of the collaboration and insights that emerged, which show just how committed our industry is to driving sustainability forward. I look forward to continuing this important work in the months ahead.”

White Paper launch

We were delighted to launch a new White Paper on EPR, which was extensively covered by industry press. The White Paper urges the Government to implement variable Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fees immediately to drive sustainability and establish a circular economy in the UK fashion and textiles sector. Read more here.

Post-event feedback

We’re proud to report that the feedback from attendees was overwhelmingly positive. According to our post-event survey, 100% of delegates found the event valuable and all respondents expressed interest in attending the next conference.

Here’s what some of the industry leaders and participants had to say:

• “Beautiful venue, inspiring content, key people in attendance”
• “Good variety of speakers, presentations, panels, and Q&As”
• “Informative and able to keep up to date with the latest trends”
• “Clearly set out themes, good presentations and great discussion”
• “The event presented both early/mid-stage concepts as well as real and practical solutions”

 Looking Ahead

The success of this year’s conference highlights the importance of bringing the entire supply chain together to address these types of issues. As we look forward to the next event, we aim to build on this momentum, continuing to explore cutting-edge technologies, policies and collaborations that will define the future of sustainable fashion and textiles here in the UK.

Thank you to all our speakers and delegates for making this event such a success and we look forward to seeing you all again soon.

UKFT Innovation & Sustainability