OEKO-TEX® has announced changes to its governance and certification framework ahead of the application of the EU Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition Directive (EU) 2024/825 from 27 September 2026.
The Directive introduces new requirements governing environmental claims and sustainability labels used in consumer facing communications. Among other changes, sustainability labels should be based on a certification scheme or established by public authorities. Certification schemes must meet specified conditions, including requirements relating to transparency, credibility, and independent third-party verification.
OEKO-TEX® has announced that it has revised its governance framework to meet these requirements and states that its existing labels can continue to be used in accordance with the new rules.
Changes to the OEKO-TEX® governance structure
OEKO-TEX® states that its new governance framework creates a clearer separation between standard setting and conformity assessment, while formally strengthening independence within the organisation.
The changes include
- conversion of the organisation from a GmbH to an AG, together with a new Statute of Independence;
- establishment of an Independence Council;
- introduction of an anonymous whistleblowing system;
- an accreditation agreement and associated annexes aligned with ISO/IEC 17065; and
- establishment of a Board of Directors as the highest decision-making body.
OEKO-TEX® states that its accredited certification bodies will continue to undertake testing, auditing, and certification, with no changes to the day-to-day processes for certificate holders and partners.
It also states that standard setting will continue to involve independent external experts through a multi-stakeholder process, including public consultation.
What does this mean for businesses using OEKO-TEX® labels?
OEKO-TEX® states that the use of its labels on products and in consumer-facing communications will remain compliant with the requirements introduced by the EmpCo Directive.
Under the new EU rules, a sustainability label must be based on a certification scheme meeting specified requirements. These include publicly available scheme requirements, transparent and non-discriminatory access, procedures for dealing with non-compliance, and objective monitoring by an independent third party.
OEKO-TEX® states that its revised governance and certification arrangements meet these requirements and that businesses using OEKO-TEX® labels will therefore be able to continue using them following the application of the new rules.
Businesses should nevertheless ensure that any environmental or sustainability claims made alongside an OEKO-TEX® label are themselves accurate, substantiated, and compliant with the wider requirements of the EmpCo Directive. The use of a certification label does not automatically make every separate environmental claim compliant.
Why is this relevant to the textile sector?
The EmpCo Directive will introduce stricter rules around environmental claims and sustainability labels in the EU. This is particularly relevant to fashion and textile businesses that use third-party certification schemes to communicate product or business environmental or sustainability characteristics.
Businesses using certification schemes should understand
- what the certification actually covers;
- which claims the certification supports;
- how the certification scheme is verified; and
- how the associated label and claims can be used in consumer-facing communications.
OEKO-TEX® has stated that it made the necessary governance changes in advance of the Directive's application date and that its certification system has been prepared to meet the new requirements.
UKFT guidance
UKFT has published a detailed guide to the EU Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition Directive, specifically to help fashion and textile businesses understand the new requirements. The guide covers environmental claims, sustainability labelling, legal guarantee notices, product durability guarantees, key dates and the scope of the Directive. It is available exclusively to UKFT members.
The Directive requires EU Member States to transpose its provisions into national law by 27 March 2026, with the new national measures applying from 27 September 2026.
UKFT members can request a copy of the guide by contacting the Regulation & Compliance team.
