This topic will be explored during the panel discussion ‘Rethinking Colour and Finishing: Can Innovation Replace Hazardous Chemistry?’ at UKFT’s Sustainability Conference 2026: Progress in Practice, taking place on Wednesday 23 September at Drapers’ Hall, London.
Bringing together expertise spanning bio-based chemistry, waterless colouration, material science, investment and commercialisation, the discussion will examine how emerging technologies could help reduce the environmental impact of some of the textile industry’s most chemistry and resource-intensive processes.
Rethinking textile chemistry
Colouration and finishing play a fundamental role in determining the appearance, feel and performance of textiles, from colour and softness to moisture management and water resistance. However, conventional processes can require significant quantities of water, energy and chemicals.
A new generation of innovators is developing alternative approaches, including bio-based textile finishes, PFAS-free performance technologies and waterless colouration systems.
The panel will explore what it takes to move these innovations from research and development into commercial application, looking at performance, scalability and adoption as well as the role of brands, investors and strategic partnerships in accelerating change.
Meet the expert panel
The session will be moderated by Amy Tsang, Head of Europe at The Mills Fabrica, who leads the organisation’s UK and European activities supporting innovators across the textiles, apparel and agrifood industries.
Amy oversees The Mills Fabrica’s London presence, including Fabrica X, its innovation gallery, concept store and coworking space, alongside industry events showcasing emerging technologies and businesses. Having joined The Mills Fabrica in 2017 as one of the founding members of its Hong Kong team, she also played an instrumental role in the organisation’s expansion into the UK.
The Mills Fabrica is a global innovation ecosystem operating in Hong Kong and London, dedicated to accelerating sustainable and social impact start-ups in the Techstyle and Agrifood sectors through investment, coworking, strategic partnerships, industry events and Fabrica X.
Joining Amy are innovators and investors working on new approaches to textile colouration, chemistry and performance:
- Matthias Foessel, Co-founder and CEO of Beyond Surface Technologies (BST), has helped pioneer bio-based textile finishing solutions since founding the company in 2008. BST develops finishes based on renewable feedstocks including micro-algae, natural waxes and plant seed oils. Its miDori® platforms offer effects including wicking and quick drying, absorbency, softness and PFC-free durable water repellency. The technologies have been adopted by brands including Patagonia, Levi’s, adidas and lululemon. Matthias is also supporting WTRLS™ in developing digital dyeing and finishing technologies for denim.
- Jun Kamei, Founder and CEO of AMPHICO, is a designer and material innovator whose background spans polymer science, design and advanced scientific research. Research originally undertaken to develop an artificial gill garment led to the founding of AMPHICO in 2018. The company has since developed Amphitex, a PFAS-free, mono-material waterproof breathable textile designed for recyclability, and Amphicolor, a waterless colouration technology that colours fabric through weaving. AMPHICO says the process uses around 55% less water and produces 16% less CO₂ than conventional dyeing.
- Shiyo Takeoka, CEO of Goldwin Venture Partners, brings experience spanning innovation policy, science and technology, venture capital and the commercialisation of emerging technologies. Goldwin Venture Partners is the corporate venture capital arm of Japanese apparel company Goldwin, which specialises in technical sportswear, outdoor and lifestyle apparel. Through the Play Earth Fund, Shiyo focuses on cross-border investment, deep tech and material innovation, providing an investor perspective on what emerging textile technologies need to move towards commercial adoption.
From innovation to industry adoption
Together, the panel will consider whether new technologies can fundamentally change the way the industry approaches colour and finishing, and what needs to happen for lower-impact alternatives to compete with established processes at scale.
The discussion will examine the relationship between scientific innovation and commercial reality, from delivering the performance required by brands and consumers to securing investment, developing manufacturing partnerships and integrating new processes into existing supply chains.
It will also explore how collaboration between material innovators, brands and investors can help accelerate the transition away from hazardous chemistry while ensuring new solutions are technically and commercially viable.
UKFT’s Sustainability Conference 2026
UKFT’s Sustainability Conference 2026: Progress in Practice will explore how innovation is driving measurable change across the UK fashion and textile supply chain.
Taking place on Wednesday 23 September, from 9am to 6pm at Drapers’ Hall, London, the conference will showcase developments across bio-based materials, low-impact dyes and finishes, textile reuse and recycling, data-driven circularity, and traceability and transparency.
Whether you work in product development, sourcing, sustainability, manufacturing, material innovation or brand strategy, this session will provide practical insight into the technologies reshaping textile colouration and finishing, and the partnerships needed to support their wider adoption.
Find out more about UKFT’s Sustainability Conference 2026: Progress in Practice at the link below.
