UKFT accompanied a group of 29 British textile companies to Première Vision from 16-18 September including leading UK mills and cloth merchants, alongside a large group of textile designers, print studios, embroidery specialists and more. Read our report on the major events and the industry trends that are set to shape the seasons ahead.

This was the first September edition of Premiere Vision Paris (PV) for many years following a concerted request for a new dateline from exhibitors and visitors. Whilst PV has lost many of its premium European worsted mills to MilanoUnica, it remains one of Europe’s largest and most influential textile and sourcing fairs and has refocussed on innovation and trends to make the show more relevant and give it an edge on the competition. PV took place a couple of weeks after the Paris Fabric Show and with dates overlapping with its main rival Texworld Paris which returned to nearby Le Bourget.

Supported by the Worshipful Company of Clothworkers, the UKFT stand in Hall 6 took a selection of textile samples from 20 UK mills and companies to the show, over and above the 20 UK textile companies and designers who were showing on their own stands. Harris Tweed Hebrides and Halley Stevensons returned to the show to join regular exhibitors including Luxury Fabrics (SIL), British Millerain, Laurent Garrigue, Henry Bertrand, Denholme Velvets, Liberty and Bella Tela. The UK’s strong showing of textile designers in Hall 5 included Amanda Kelly, Cats Brothers, Paul Vogel, Susanna Sampson, Vintage Labels, Weavabel, Woven Studio and vintage book purveyor Potterton Books.

The show layout was subtly redesigned to create a luxury feel around the main trend area in Hall 5 and a global sourcing feel in hall 6. There were quality presentations from France, Italy and Portugal was well as the UK. There were also groups from China, Turkey, Korea, India and Pakistan. Overall the organisers had chosen the collections carefully with an emphasis on quality, innovation and technology in textiles.

There was a smaller PV Yarns offer but an enlarged PV Manufacturing section towards the back of hall 6, with CMT manufacturers from around the world. Gone was the PV Proximity emphasis on near-shoring as the Manufacturing area featured manufacturers large and small from around the world. The show included a prominent Textile Innovation section (at the main entrance to hall 6) and, adjacently, a new PV Deadstock area selling excess stock.

The show was quieter than in past years but was generally described by most exhibitors as “steady”. According to the organisers’ press release, the show brought together “nearly 20,000 [industry] professionals” which would suggest that the number of buyers, press and other visitors was closer to 18,000 – after 2000 exhibiting personnel have been discounted. There were approx. 1000 exhibitors at the show.

Based on UKFT’s observations of the show, the buyers and brands were predominantly European although there were agents, but fewer buyer than usual, present from Asia. There was comparatively little buyer traffic from the US and Asia although there were groups of buyers and agents from the Middle East. US retailers were reported as being especially cautious following the US President’s IEEPA additional tariffs. Asian buyers of volume textiles are increasingly attracted to local shows including Intertextile Shanghai and VIATT Vietnam.

India was strongly represented at the show although Indian visitors were predominantly looking to sell rather than buy, especially as India needs to refocus its efforts on the UK and the EU markets in light of the USA’s additional tariffs on Indian origin goods. UKFT has expressed concern to the UK government that there is a serious risk of Indian dumping into the UK and EU of goods India following the hike in US tariffs.

Whilst PV September traditionally targets the AW26/7 collections, many UK exhibitors reported that they were having interesting conversations about SS27 at the show, confirming the show’s continued role as a trend-leader.

The UKFT stand was visited by many UK brands including Kestin, Orla Kiely, Wear and Maria Grachvogel as well as agents from Korea and industry groups from nations such as Brazil, Canada and India.

Matthew Simpson representing Luxury Fabrics said: “As usual we saw a diverse variety of customers at PV Paris; several of which we are unlikely to encounter during our other sales activities in the season. We also made on the spot sales which generally does not happen in Milan. However, it is notable that we were the only UK worsted mill at the show and that none of our direct peers show anymore.”

David Burke at Maison Henry Bertrand said: “We have re-connected with old customers and taken reasonable sample orders from new customers but we felt the general footfall was lower.”

Laurent Garigue of Laurent Garigue said: “This edition of PV was better than expected even though many key visitors and exhibitors, did not attend. The overall mood was positive, and the show was better than Milan for us in July.”

UKFT’s Dan Connolly said: “Première Vision Paris remains an important show for the premium European textile market and is increasingly relevant for buyers looking at textile technology and innovation. It is important to promote UK innovation in textiles and a fresh, modern take on UK textiles at the show.”

Find out more about UKFT’s Discover British Brands and Textiles campaign, which showcases and promotes UK fashion and textile brands exhibiting at events across the world. Click on the link below to find out more:

DISCOVER BRITISH TEXTILES