Mackintosh has installed a new automated handling system to support the skilled workers at its Lancashire factory, as the classic outerwear manufacturer updates its traditional image.

UK luxury brand Mackintosh has recently invested in new technology to reduce downtime, improve production visibility and ultimately drive efficiency at its factory in Nelson, Lancashire.

This new phase of future-proofing was started two years ago when Stephen Lees was promoted to production director and Simon Harris joined the company as chief operating officer from Barbour.

The UKFT member produces its own branded coats including its exclusive collaborations with global labels including Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Gucci, from its two UK factories in Nelson and Cumbernauld, North Lanarkshire.

While Mackintosh is known for its iconic rubber rainwear, Harris has led the brand to expand its collections to include more contemporary offerings with fashion-forward details, as well as a much broader range of outerwear including gilets, parkas, puffa jackets and capes.

Lees, meanwhile, has been focused on ensuring production can continue to meet demand and to tackle the issue of attracting and retaining skilled workers.

“Like many manufacturers, we have a very skilled but ageing workforce so we need to think outside the box for solutions to allow us to maintain production and improve efficiency,” explains Lees, who has been with Mackintosh for 14 years.

Stephen Lees, production director at Mackintosh

The company, which has been owned by Japanese group Yagi Tsusho since 2007, upgraded and expanded the Nelson factory eight years ago and it is now a light and airy unit on two floors, housing around 74 people.

From the outside, you could almost imagine you were at a Japanese car manufacturer but inside, there is an emphasis on traditional skills and experience alongside technology and innovation.

Mackintosh was faced with a problem in the cutting department three years ago, for example, when two of the most experienced cutters were due to retire. The company invested in a Bullmer automated cutting machine to sit alongside the hand cutters and band knife cutting, and trained up Michael, a longstanding cutter to run the machine.

“We would have preferred people but we couldn’t replace those skills so invested in technology,” says Lees. “Previously it would take two people two and a half weeks to cut 100 pieces, but now could take a day and a half to do the same amount. It also gives a fabric saving of around 25% compared to using a band knife.”

Michael operating the automatic cutting machine at Mackintosh

Michael says: “I’d worked in the various cutting roles here in the factory but outside of work, I love technology so now I get to combine my experience and interests.”

Similarly, Lees looked for a technological solution to solve the issue of production inefficiency on the factory floor and began installation of the Anzani automatic production handling system this summer, starting during the annual factory shutdown.

“We do so many different styles in different colours, sizes and for different customers, which is what makes our business special but also unproductive and inefficient. We looked into how we could eliminate some of these issues and came across the Anzani solution which was developed for the shoe industry. This is the only one in the UK and we’re the first company using it for outerwear.”

Lees explains: “Our machinists work on piecework and while an individual operator might be very efficient, the factory as a whole was less so due to bottlenecks. This new system has made a massive difference already. Our machinists like it because it allows them to earn more so it is a win-win.”

Debbie, who has worked for Mackintosh for 36 years and the last eight as production supervisor, is now running the system. It gives her real-time visibility of what is happening and where.

“We knew the concept would work but it was a leap of faith as we had to commit to it during such an uncertain time,” says Lees. “However we knew we needed to do something and thankfully it has paid off. It should enable the factory to produce 6,000 pieces extra to keep pace with our sales growth.”

It is clear that while technology can support key functions, the skills and experience of staff is what underpins Mackintosh as a business.

Scott looks after Mackintosh’s fabric department

Lees is keen to point out people like Scott, who looks after the firm’s extensive fabric department, and Ann, the senior supervisor who has 40 years’ experience in sample development, as he shows UKFT around the factory.

Ann, the senior supervisor who has 40 years’ experience in sample development and production

This is why the company is looking to work with local colleges to attract new people into the business to ensure this historic company can continue to sell its outerwear all around the world for years to come.

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