The January edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence saw confidence returning, with a sense of excitement and newness from UK brands showing their latest collections to the international menswear market. Pitti Uomo offers the perfect opportunity for the UK to showcase its strengths in knitwear, footwear, outerwear, tailoring and accessories, while a series of collaborations combining the ‘best of British’ introduced brands to new audiences.

Knitwear: Elevate the everyday

Coxmoore

For AW24, the concept of “quiet luxury” has evolved into an effortlessly refined look that is less formal but maintains an air of sophistication. There was a palpable sense of confidence from brands as they embrace tradition but the once muted-palette of “grandpa” style has been revitalised, adding vibrancy and depth to classic pieces.

Jamiesons of Shetland

Whether it’s the timeless charm of Fair Isle from the likes of Scottish knitwear designer Eribé or Shetland specialist Jamiesons of Scotland to the understated elegance of fine gauge styles from Derbyshire-based John Smedley, UK brands have something for every occasion.

John Smedley

New Pitti exhibitor Channel Jumper offers traditional Guernsey knitwear, while Coxmoore and Sunspel also offer premium knitwear for discerning buyers. Johnstons of Elgin, meanwhile, has been proudly making in Scotland for more than two centuries.

Johnstons of Elgin

Best foot forward

The UK is home to some of the world’s most sought-after footwear specialists, combining time-honoured techniques with luxury craftsmanship. Made in Northampton and Made in England are recognised internationally as a hallmark of quality and expertise for luxury footwear buyers.

Edward Green

This season, brands unveiled traditional and classic styles updated for contemporary living, featuring buttery soft leather, deerskin, calfskin and suede with Goodyear-welted soles alongside lighter weight EVA or technical Vibram soles. Styles encompassed the brogue, oxford, derby, wing-cap boot, loafer, Chelsea boot, moccasins, sneakers and more.

Cheaney

The Pitti line-up for AW24 included Barker, Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Edward Green, Loake, Sanders & Sanders, Tricker’s, Harrys of London, Loungers and Yogi Footwear.

Loungers

Brave the elements in style

The UK’s expertise in outerwear is renowned around the world, ranging from timeless classics like tailored wool overcoats and duffles through to contemporary puffer jackets that blend fashion and function. Premium materials such as cashmere and wool, sit alongside shearling, down and water-resistant fabrics to offer protection, comfort and style in any weather.

Barbour held an event with Hypebeast UK in Florence

This season at Pitti, buyers could explore a curated collection of coats and jackets from key names including Gloverall, Grenfell, Harris Wharf, Barbour and Alan Paine. Whether it’s a trench coat or sleek blazer for a polished look, a waxed jacket or a rugged parka for urban exploration, the UK’s outerwear pieces redefine winter style with a nod to both comfort and trendsetting aesthetics.

Gloverall

Tailoring: Redefining traditional elegance

The return to a formal dressing was evident in Florence this season but with a fresh interpretation, breathing new life into timeless pieces. The use of heritage fabrics like houndstooth, herringbone and tweeds was prominent but collections at Pitti Uomo for AW24 featured more colours, textures and technical innovations for both classic and more adventurous styles. The suit becomes a canvas for creativity and functionality, with buyers exploring tailoring from Douglas Hayward or Walker Slater or shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt.

W.Rubens

There were also contemporary looks from Stefan Cooke, Pitti runway designer S.S. Daley or Heron’s Ghyll. New brand W.Rubens reimagined the humble white T-shirt taking inspiration from tailoring while Only The Blind unveiled conceptual streetwear featuring intricate embroidery.

Heron’s Ghyll

Accessories: Where every detail matters

The UK is particularly strong when it comes to completing an outfit, with an astonishing array of specialists that combine quality and craftsmanship with contemporary styling.

Kirk & Kirk

At Pitti this season, buyers from around the world could source braces from Albert Thurston, belts from Hardy & Parsons, hats from Christy’s and Failsworth, sunglasses from Kirk&Kirk or glasses from Cutler & Gross, plus bags from Cambridge Satchel, Croots England, Elliker, Minnessak or Pampeano.

Cambridge Satchel

This look could be finished off with cufflinks from Elizabeth Parker, a designer bracelet from Tateossian and socks from either Pantherella or sister brand Scott Nichol. Stylish luggage fis available from Carl Friedrik and scarves from Joshua Ellis and Oats & Rice.

Oats & Rice

Iconic brands

Brands such as Barbour, Gloverall, Kangol and Ben Sherman are recognised around the world and represent the diverse and enduring legacy of British menswear.

Kangol

Collectively these brands capture the essence of both tradition and innovation, and have made a significant contribution to the international menswear industry.

Creative collaborations

UK brands often join forces with different designers artists or brands to inject new perspectives, styles and ideas into the collection, attracting attention and appealing to a new audience.

At Pitti Uomo this season, we saw some key partnerships between Sunspel and Nigel Cabourn, Barbour and Baracuta, and Christy’s Hats and Johnstons of Elgin.

New launches at Pitti Uomo this season

There were a number of new exhibitors making their debut at Pitti Uomo this season including Channel Jumper, McGeorge of Scotland, Oats & Rice, Stefan Cooke and W. Rubens. 

Alan Scott

New UK brand Alan Scott made its wholesale debut at Pitti Uomo after a successful pop-up at Harrods at the end of last year. Its designer Alan Scott, who has worked at Donna Karan, Loro Piana and Johnstons of Elgin, has developed a new luxury collection of elevated outerwear, casual jackets, pants and polo shirts featuring a revolutionary Cashmere Stretch fabric created in Italy. The brand was also introducing a capsule of travel accessories made in collaboration with Tivoli of Florence, the owner of Smythson of London.

Leathersmith of London

Simon Burstein, the former CEO of Browns, unveiled a full men’s collection under his Leathersmith of London brand, which has been crafting the finest quality leather bound books and accessories since 1839. For the first time at Pitti Uomo this season, Leathersmith of London launched the new AW24 men’s collection comprising luxury shirts, knitwear, sportswear, bags, scarves and other accessories alongside the range of diaries, notebooks and journals.

Something to celebrate

Many UK brands have a long proud heritage of design and manufacture. Those celebrating significant milestones include Christy’s Hats, which turned 250 last year and British footwear brand Sanders & Sanders, which celebrated 150 years in 2023. This year, Lyle & Scott, which returned for the first time to Pitti Uomo this January since the pandemic hit, will turn 150 on 7 September 2024.

Sanders

Quality buyers looking for something new

Paul Alger MBE, Director of International Business at UKFT, said: “We were delighted to accompany a group of 56 British brands to Pitti Uomo this season, with the support of the Department for Business and Trade (DBT). This was the biggest group since the Covid outbreak and builds on growing numbers over the past few seasons. Most brands told us they have had some good conversations with prestigious buyers from around the world, made new connections and written orders.”

After a slower start in the Tuesday, the UK brands reported that they had seen a good quality of buyer from the EU, Japan, Korea, the US and China. Russia and the Middle East were also in evidence. Most UK brands have invested in their EU distribution links to be able to deliver on a landed basis into the EU and this seems to sit well with EU and other buyers. Most brands said they were happy with the show this season and those moving on to Paris for the Menswear and Pre-collections shows reported that they were also expecting to see additional buyers there.

Initial reports from event organiser Pitti Immagine suggested that approximately 13,000 buyers attended the show last week and overseas buyers increased by 4% compared to the previous edition. The UK had the third biggest delegation of buyers, behind Germany and Holland, and also notable was the recovery of the main Asian markets, the organiser said.

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